Fischer RC4 Carbon Pro LV Boa ws 115+

How to Choose the Perfect Flex for Your Hockey Stick: Kick Point, Curve and Pro-Level Feel

Your stick is the only piece of gear you touch on every single shift. Skates transfer your power, gloves protect your hands, but the stick is where your hands, your weight and your shot all meet. Get the flex right and everything feels easier — the puck jumps off the blade, your release is quick, and you stop fighting your own equipment. Get it wrong and you will spend the season wondering why your shot feels flat. This guide breaks down what flex actually measures, how kick point and curve change the way your stick loads and releases, and what pro-level players are really looking for when they pick a stick off the rack. Everything here applies to ice hockey and dek hockey alike, because the physics of loading a shaft do not care what surface you are standing on. What stick flex actually means Flex is a number that describes how much force it takes to bend a stick one inch. A 75 flex stick takes roughly 75 pounds of force to deflect one inch; a 100 flex takes 100 pounds. Lower number, easier to bend. Higher number, stiffer. That is the whole definition — and it is why the number on the shaft is only useful once you know how strong you are and how you shoot. A stick that is too stiff for you never fully loads. You lean into a shot, the shaft barely bends, and the energy you put in never gets stored and released. The result is a hard-feeling shot with no pop. A stick that is too whippy loads easily but twists on hard passes, feels unstable receiving, and can spray your release. The middle is where most players belong For most adult players, the sweet spot sits near half your body weight in pounds: Player weight Starting flex to try Under 100 lb (youth) 30–40 100–130 lb 40–55 130–160 lb 55–70 160–190 lb 70–85 190–220 lb 85–100 220 lb+ 95–110 Treat that table as a starting point, not a rule. A 170 lb player with a heavy wrist shot and good mechanics can absolutely play a 90 flex. A 170 lb player who shoots mostly snap shots in tight will feel faster with a 70. Two things that quietly change your flex Cutting the stick down stiffens it. Every inch you remove adds roughly 3 to 5 flex points. If you are cutting two inches off a senior stick, a 70 can become a 80. Adding an extension softens it. Extensions make the shaft effectively longer and whippier, which is why a tall player should buy a longer stick rather than extend a short one. If you are between sizes, buy the flex that fits your strength and cut to length — not the other way around. Kick point: where the stick bends and releases Kick point is the spot on the shaft where the stick flexes most. It decides how quickly the energy comes back out, which is the difference between a shot that surprises the goalie and a shot they have time to set for. Low kick point The shaft loads near the blade. Minimal wind-up, fastest release. This is the stick for snap shots, quick wristers from the slot, and getting pucks off in traffic before a stick check arrives. Defenders and forwards who score from the hash marks usually love low kick. The trade-off is that low-kick sticks give up some top-end power on a full slap shot. Mid kick point The most versatile option and the most common build in the senior market. The shaft loads through the middle, so you get a stable, predictable release whether you are winding up for a slap shot or firing a snap shot. If you do not know what kind of shooter you are yet, mid kick is the safe choice — it does everything reasonably well. High kick point Loads up near the top of the shaft, which means it needs a longer, more deliberate motion to bend. The payoff is a heavier, more accurate shot on full wind-ups: slap shots, one-timers, and shots from the point. Players with a long, powerful release and heavy lower-body drive get the most out of high kick. Kick point Best for Release Power Low Snap shots, quick wristers, in-tight finishing Fastest Moderate Mid All-around play, two-way players, new stick buyers Balanced Balanced High Slap shots, one-timers, point shots Slower wind-up Highest Match kick point to how you score Be honest about your game. If most of your goals come from quick releases in front, do not buy a high-kick cannon. If you play the point on the power play, a low-kick stick will feel like it is not giving you enough on the big shot. Your stick should match the shot you actually take, not the one you wish you took. Curve: the shape that decides where the puck goes The blade pattern changes shot placement, passing, and how the puck sits on your blade. Three things make up a pattern: Curve location — heel, mid or toe. A mid curve is the most forgiving and the standard starting point. Heel curves help with backhands and receiving hard passes. Toe curves are built for pulling the puck in and snapping it to the top corner. Face angle — open or closed. An open face lifts the puck easily and helps with high shots and saucer passes. A closed face keeps shots low and makes hard passes easier to catch cleanly. Lie — how the blade sits relative to the shaft. A higher lie keeps the blade flatter when you skate upright; a lower lie suits players who lean forward with the puck out in front. The three patterns most players end up choosing Mid-heel, slightly open (the classic all-around pattern). Easy to shoot with, predictable passing, works for most players at most positions. If you are buying your first serious stick, start here. Mid, closed face. Great for defence and strong skaters who shoot low and hard for rebounds. Fewer surprises; the puck stays down. Toe curve, open face. Maximum toe drag and release angle. Fun and dangerous in close, less forgiving on catch-and-release passes. Do not chase an exotic curve before you have mastered a simple one. Most players lose more goals to bad puck placement than to a curve that was not aggressive enough. What pro-level players look for in a stick Pros do not shop the way the rest of us do, and it shows in what they prioritize: A release they can repeat, not a spec sheet. At the elite level, consistency beats peak numbers. A pro will take a stick that loads identically every time over one that measures better on paper. Flex tuned to their shooting style, not their weight. Many pros play well under the flex most players of their size would choose, because a whippier shaft matches a fast release. Others go stiffer for a heavier one-timer. The flex serves the shot. A kick point that fits their most common shot. The pros who make a living on quick releases are not carrying point-shot cannons, and the players who bomb from the point are not using a whippy low-kick twig. A curve they have used for years. Pros change curves rarely, because the geometry of the blade is muscle memory. If you find a pattern you like, stay with it long enough to actually master it. Batch-to-batch consistency and build quality. Pro-level sticks are judged on how the shaft holds up, whether the blade softens, and whether the second stick of the same model feels like the first. That last point is the one that separates pro-level construction from entry-level construction — and it is the reason a good mid-range stick that matches your mechanics will outperform a top-shelf stick that does not. Dek hockey and youth: same principles, different numbers Dek hockey players load the shaft the same way, just with less body weight behind it. A dek player who is 150 lb and shooting off a sport court should be looking at lighter flexes — often in the 60 to 75 range — because the surface gives less traction for a full weight transfer and the ball or puck requires a quicker release. For youth players, resist the urge to buy a stick they will "grow into." A flex a young player cannot bend teaches bad mechanics and kills confidence. Buy the flex they can load today, then size up when they grow. How to test a stick before you buy it You can learn a lot in 60 seconds in the store or on the driveway: Lean test. Grip the stick normally and push your top hand down while pulling the bottom hand back. You should be able to bend the shaft a visible amount without straining. If you cannot bend it, it is too stiff. Shooting test. Take five snap shots off a shooting pad or the tile surface. The puck should come off quickly and without a wobble. If the shaft twists, the flex is too soft or the pattern does not suit you. One-hand test. With your top hand only, push down on the shaft. The bend should happen where you expect your kick point to be. If the bend is near the blade and you want a heavy point shot, keep looking. Receiving test. Have someone fire hard passes at you. A stable blade and a flex that matches your strength will make catching feel quiet and controlled. Common flex mistakes to avoid Buying stiffness as a status symbol. A 100 flex stick does not make you shoot harder; it makes you shoot harder only if you can bend it. Changing everything at once. New flex, new kick point, new curve and new length in the same season gives you no way to know what helped. Ignoring height and reach. Flex is about loading the shaft, but the stick still has to fit your stance. A perfectly flexed stick that is too short will cost you more than it gains. Forgetting the backup. Your second stick should feel like your first. Buy two of the same spec when you find the one that works. FAQ Does cutting my stick really change the flex? Yes. Removing length stiffens the shaft — roughly 3 to 5 flex points per inch. If you are cutting significantly, drop down a flex rating to compensate. Is a lower flex better for wrist shots? Usually, yes. A lower flex loads more easily, so you get a faster release on wrist and snap shots. The right number depends on your strength, not just your shot type. What flex should a 160 lb adult use? Start around 70 and adjust based on how the stick loads in a shooting test. Strong shooters often go up to 75–80; quick-release players often prefer 65–70. Does the curve affect my flex choice? Indirectly. An open toe curve encourages a quicker, more compact release, which pairs naturally with a lower flex. A closed mid curve suits players who take longer, harder shots. Should beginners buy a mid kick point? Yes. Mid kick is the most forgiving and does not lock you into a shooting style before you have developed one. Find your number, then own it Flex, kick point and curve are three separate decisions, and the best stick for you is the one where all three point at the same shot. Start with your body weight to find a flex range, match the kick point to how you actually score, and keep the curve simple until it feels automatic. At LPS Sports & Fitness we stock sticks for every level of that journey — including PSX hockey sticks, engineered in Quebec and distributed in Canada exclusively through LPS, plus dek hockey sticks, gloves and training gear. If you are not sure where to start, tell us your weight, your position and the shot you take most, and we will point you at the flex and pattern that fit. Own every shift.

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Fischer RC4 Carbon Pro LV Boa ws 115+

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